Ceretto: Still Raising the Bar

Over the years, I've tasted more than my fair share of wines from Ceretto. They have always possessed the remarkable ability to consistently craft solid wines at relatively affordable prices. In addition, they have persevered to make their wines readily available throughout the farthest corners of the globe.

Their new releases hit the mark across the board and I'm pleased to note that consumers can reach for Ceretto's wine with the full confidence of knowing that they will enjoy textbook to sublime examples of wines that truly reflect the vineyards from which they were made. It's exciting to know that while many producers change winemaking styles to keep up with common trends in the hope of catching a big wave, the Ceretto family has its feet firmly planted in tradition while adopting just enough modern technology to continue improvement.

The 2008 Blange Arneis is a joy to drink, sporting exotic flavors while still being able to pair up with food while the single vineyard Prapo' barolo is simply stunning. The Ceretto brothers, with whom I had the pleasure of walking through their vineyards in Serralunga some 16 years ago, have put forth wines that display their charm as well as their dedication to hard work.

Ceretto Arneis Blange Langhe 2008 (86)
If the bubble gum and raspberry aromas on the nose aren't enough to make you smile then perhaps the swarming flavors of ripe white cherry and canned peach with a lively mineral streak that runs up the spine will convince you. Always a crowd pleaser, if you can't cozy up to this juicy effort you may need a shot of grappa. ($27)

Ceretto Dolcetto D'Alba Rossana 2007 (85)
Black cherry, hints of smoky cherry, and tar aromas quickly befriend the nose on this balanced yet full-throttle dolcetto from a single vineyard located in the Madonna Como district outside of Alba. On the palate, the focused attack of blackberry, wild cherry, and nutmeg are tightly woven with the bright and chewy acids that meet you at the door. A well structured effort this will pair nicely with richer pasta dishes and roasted duck. ($25)

Ceretto Monsordo Langhe Rosso DOC 2007 (88)
Aromas of macerated red cherries, baked strawberry, and blueberries combine with hints of vanilla from the oak to create a seductive and racy nose that will appeal to all seeking adventure. And there's no shortage of excitement in the mouth as the flavors combine to show-off layers of ripe black berry fruits, chocolate, and baking spices that are well integrated with the oak aging. The finish is long and seamless although showing a slight hint of heat at the end. This proud, hi-tech fruit bomb shows elegance and will find its fans across international borders. A blend of merlot, syrah, cabernet sauvignon, and a splash of nebbiolo aged in barrique for 18 months.($38)

Ceretto Barbaresco Asij 2006 (86)
Ample aromas of vanilla and rose petals compete for your attention on the nose while whispers of tar and red cherry lurk underneath. The focused flavors of black tea, orange peel, and graphite expand slightly on the palate as the wine moves from front to back. This is a simple, focused, and balanced wine sporting durable tannins that will need to be cellared for several years to allow the tannins to mellow and flavors develop. ($45)

Ceretto Barbaresco Bricco Asili Bernardot 2005 (91)
A gorgeously complex nose of apple, mineral, tea leaf, and cocoa are immediately enticing but what commands your full attention and respect is the restrained power and elegance that is shown on the palate. There's plenty of bound-up black and red fruit that's waiting to spring out but the sheer power that rumbles underneath without upsetting the balance and wine's future agenda is awesome. Excellent wine that will shout volumes in 5-6 years with a roasted beef course. Well done! ($81)

Ceretto Barolo Zonchera 2004 (90)
Selected from vineyards in and around the town on Barolo and Serralunga, this barolo offers up jovial aromas of red cherry, flower petal extract, and basil. A fruity attack of roasted cinnamon, cranberry, dried cherry, and red zinger tea all come together to boast a textbook barolo that flaunts its beguiling youth strutting well-integrated tannins from start to finish. Over the years this has become my benchmark for young barolo as it provides as much drinking pleasure now as it will in 5-6 years. ($51)

Ceretto Barolo Bricco Rocche Brunate 2004 (93)
A brooding nose is stingy with the aromas of crushed black pepper, balsam, and cocoa-dusted cherries but you sense they want to unleash sooner rather than later. The La Morra earth sings here-belting out high notes galore of red tea, tar, and cherry extract on the palate while maintaining the integrity of nebbiolo with juicy yet firm tannins that wind deftly throughout the wine's spine from top to bottom. Complex and complete, this is a sexy beast that will need thru 2018 to let the crowd know its heights; preferably reigning over a cauldron of ossobucco. Only 160 cases imported into the U.S. ($88)

Ceretto Barolo Bricco Rocche Prapo' 2004 (96)
From a small 6 acre estate-owned vineyard in the steep hills of Serralunga comes an onslaught of mineral, caramel, and cherry-laden aromas that are shockingly developed for such a young wine. However, the attack on the palate, riddled with mushroom, sweet black cherry, tar, earth, and hibiscus flavors is almost embarrassingly amazing. This is a hideously attractive, complete barolo, whose tannins boast elegance, power, and length, while the balanced acids sit mindfully on the sideline waiting to show-up in the 4th quarter. Everything you want in a single vineyard barolo and a superb example of nebbiolo from Serralunga. ($88)